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Question One: Many of my
readers write to me with questions about repairing costume
jewelry. I have a few "rules" or "guidelines" that work
well for me. These guidelines are based on my collecting
experience and are more opinion that concrete facts.
Please use what I like to call "thoughtful caution" if you
choose to follow any of these tips.
Feel free to send me any
additional tips you might like to share with others. I'll
try to post them to this page. When you write let me know
if want your tip posted and if I can use your name. (An
email link is provided on the home page.)
Always try to purchase jewelry in excellent condition.
In my opinion, it is usually a good idea to pass up a damaged
piece. In the excitement of the "hunt" for treasures this
can be difficult to do; however, in my experience it is better
to wait, continue the hunt, and perhaps pay more for a piece in
good condition
Metal wear to the front
of the piece is unacceptable unless the piece is exceptionally
old, rare, and valuable. Peeling or flaking metal
is also unacceptable. Normal metal wear to the back of the
piece, where it has rubbed on the skin, is OK but does lower the
value.
Solder repairs are
unacceptable.
Re-plating is
unacceptable.
Replaced pin backs can be
OK if the pin is an EXACT fit in terms of length, width, and
color. The repair must also be strong and solidly done.
Re-soldered joints and
catches are unacceptable. A solder repair of any kind,
even well-done, shows. Also, this kind of hardware repair
suggests to me that the piece may have suffered a mishap or
lived a tough life. Over time, other issues may surface with an
abused piece.
For necklaces, the chain
should be original to the piece. I prefer a chain with a
bit of wear over a new chain added to a vintage pendant.
The original chain has the original clasp with may or may not be
marked. The wear or lack or wear on an original chain is
also an indication of the piece's "mileage".
Rhinestone replacements
are acceptable and expected but only if they are well done.
I often buy jewelry with missing, easy to replace stones.
- The replacement stone must
be an exact match for the original stone in terms of color,
cut, finish, size, and shape.
- A proper glue must be used
- one that will not yellow - and any splatters of glue must
be removed from the surrounding area.
- Prong-set stones can be a
challenge to set. The stone must sit properly in the
setting and the prongs need to be evenly closed.
- Consider the cost. A
few small missing stones is fine, but if dozens of missing
stones is unacceptable.
Some art glass stone
replacements are available. I recommend spending some time
reviewing the many different types of rhinestone and art glass
replacement stones available at
www.mrstones.com I
do not purchase jewelry with missing art glass stones unless I
am certain I can obtain an exact replacement.
Cloudy stones suggest
that the piece may have spent some time in a moist environment
or that the original stones were low quality. As a
collector I am more worried about the long-term integrity of a
piece with cloudy stones than I am with a piece missing a few
stones. Look any piece with cloudy stones over very
carefully for other signs of rust or moisture related issues.
If the metal is OK and the piece is rare/valuable enough to
absorb the cost of replacing ALL of the stones (if a few
are cloudy now, others will follow over time), I consider
purchasing it. In my
opinion, repainting or repairing enameling is
unacceptable. Many 1940's enameled styles will have
scratches, chips, etc. I expect to see some enameling
flaws and as a collector I prefer these age related flaws to a
repainted piece. I will purchase an older, 1940's era
design with slightly flawed enameling. I pass by pieces
with a huge amount of damage. I think to myself "Can I
wear this piece as it is or is it so badly flawed that it can
not longer be worn?" I pass by enameled jewelry that is
too damaged to be worn. |