For those of you who have read my first book Collecting Costume Jewelry 101:  The Basics of Starting, Building and Upgrading a collection, you know my passion for costume jewelry featuring interesting faux stones and beads.  In my opinion, great stones and/or beads heighten the interest and value of collectible costume jewelry.  The following reference guide for stones and beads showcases outstanding costume jewelry stones and beads.  When possible each entry includes a photograph of the stone or bead, a history, and an example of collectible costume jewelry featuring the stone or bead.

Challenge:  As you view the example jewelry in Collecting Costume Jewelry 202, try to identify interesting stones and beads.    

Agate

Definition:

The natural agate or chalcedony stone is from volcanic lavas.  These rocks, when split, expose a wonderful display of color in characteristic bands.  Natural agates are found in many locations around the world including Germany, China, India, USA (Arizona), Mexico, Italy and Egypt.

The simulated stone shown below may or may not be simulated agate.  However, I think of agate when I look at the stone because of the wonderful array of colors.  Also, notice the black edges and the way the colorful middle is revealed - like someone sliced off the top of the stone exposing the gorgeous center.  The colorful interiors of natural agates are exposed by splitting the stone in this way. 

Interestingly, this marvelous Carnegie brooch also features a two fascinating black cabochon stones with colorful foil centers.  The centers form a star shape much like faux star sapphire stones except in black.  The stones look like they are about to split revealing a fiery center!

Hattie Carnegie brooch with faux agate stone.

Close view of faux agate stone.

Close view of uncut nugget top stone.

Close view of colorful star at center of black cabochon stone.

Recommendations:

Most talented authors ( and artists) use symbolism to illustrate ideas or themes.  I wonder if the artist who created this brooch was also using symbolism to illustrate a theme?  First there is an uncut oval nugget topped stone - the uncut agate.  Then there is the cut agate revealing the hidden beauty inside.  Finally, the colorful (foil?) star at the center of the black cabochon stone suggests a colorful interior.  All of these stones seem to support the theme that one must overlook a rough exterior to see the beauty hidden inside. 

Perhaps I am reading more into this piece than was intended by the designer.  No matter.  The stones are rare, wonderful, and interesting, which are traits I covet in costume jewelry designs.

Bakelite

Definition:

Bakelite is a resin or plastic invented in 1909 by Leo Baekeland.  Bakelite is a thermoset plastic, which means it will not melt when exposed to heat.

Leo Baekeland formed a company called the Bakelite Corporation and patented his invention.  When the Bakelite patent expired in 1927, many different manufacturers began producing jewelry, radios, knives and many other products using this material. 

Jewelry made from Bakelite is highly collectible, especially the carved and multicolored pieces.  Bakelite comes in a variety of colors and is heavy compared to other plastics.  Some collectors identify Bakelite by briskly rubbing the piece with a thumb.  If the jewelry gives off the smell of carbolic acid, then it is Bakelite.  Another test is to put a small amount of Formula 409 cleaner on a Q-tip and then rub the piece.  If the Q-tip turns yellow then the jewelry is probably Bakelite. 

The following bracelet features interesting Bakelite inserts (stones).  A savvy collector knows to check plastic inserts, especially marble-style inserts, to determine if the inserts are Bakelite. 

Three views of this magnificent bracelet showing the collectible Bakelite inserts, 1940's era etched metal, and the magnificently designed links.  This bracelet is unmarked but the design and use of materials qualify it for a place in any collector's heart.

Recommendations:

If you are interested in collecting Bakelite then I recommend consulting books dedicated to this type of jewelry.  However, all collectors should be alert to fabulous jewelry with Bakelite inserts like this exceptionally fine bracelet.

Flawed Emerald

Definition:

A flawed emerald stone is an emerald color glass stone with a swirl or drizzle of color deep inside.  The lovely Kramer pin shown below is a good example of a wonderful faux flawed emerald stone. 

In nature, fine flawless emeralds, with good green color, are rare and one of the most sought after of precious gemstones.  Most precious emeralds are flawed and/or cloudy.  Fine emeralds are a transparent stone - a variety of beryl.  Some of the best natural emeralds are found in limestone deposits in Colombia, Austria, and South Africa. 

Kramer pin with three pear-shaped faux flawed emerald stones.

Close view of faux flawed emerald stone showing the swirls of color deep inside the glass.

Interesting unmarked bracelet with faux polished flawed emerald rocks.

Close view of a polished  flawed emerald rock.  Notice that these faux rocks are not faceted and are of varying sizes.

This absolutely beautiful brooch featuring three faceted, tear-drop shape flawed emerald stone is unmarked.  The faux stones match the Kramer pin shown above.

Recommendations:

In my experience, faux flawed emerald glass stones are rarely found.  Marked or unmarked jewelry featuring these stones is well worth adding to a vintage costume jewelry collection.  Of course, as always, look for good condition examples.

Givré

Definition:

Givré is a French word describing rhinestones with a strip of color across the middle of the stone.  This style of stone was popular in the 1960's and was available in a variety of colors including pink, blue, and white.

Example One:  Close view of a light blue givré navette stone.

Example Two:  Lovely Kramer brooch featuring light blue givré stones, light blue pearls, and light blue baguette rhinestones.

Recommendations:

The first time I saw this stone, many years ago, I thought the stone was damaged.  It looked to me like some of the coating peeled away.  Now I look for jewelry with these interesting givré stones.  In my opinion, light blue givré stones were the perfect design choice for the "icy" blue Kramer brooch shown in Example Two.

This beautiful Kramer is featured on page 44 of the first edition of Collecting Costume Jewelry 101.

Hematite

Definition:

Natural hematite is found in many places including Canada, England, Switzerland, and Brazil.  Artists use hematite for wonderful carvings because it relatively soft compared to other materials and has a lovely metallic finish.  Some hematite, when cut, is red in color but black crystals also are found with the same marvelous metallic finish.  Since it is highly eflective, hematite has even been used for mirrors.  Another name for hematite is "iron rose".

The 1954 Jewelers' Buyer's Guide states that faux hematite stones were unavailable at that time. I can't say when the imitation hematite stone was first introduced, but the Guide certainly suggests that jewelry featuring faux hematite stones was made after 1954.

The impressive brooch and earrings set shown below is a good example of costume jewelry featuring faux hematite stones.  This unmarked set is a DeLizza and Elster design.  Large oval faux hematite center stones are surrounded by clear, smoky quartz, and aurora borealis rhinestones.  Small and large navette shaped faux hematite stones form attractive metallic petals.  The metallic surface is so reflective, the image of my camera can be seen in the center stones!

DeLizza and Elster brooch and earrings set featuring faux hematite stones.

Recommendations:

Many beautiful costume jewelry designs feature faux hematite stones, including great hematite beads.  Beautiful with black or gray fashions, I recommend finding faux hematite jewelry to match your wardrobe and lifestyle.   Usually set in silver tone metal, faux hematite jewelry (when it is well designed like the above DeLizza and Elster set) adds a touch of elegance to an outfit.

Lava/Rock Stones

Definition:

A Lava/rock stone is an irregularly shaped stone made of glass or plastic often with an iridescent coating.  Rock style jewelry was popular from the 1960's through the 1980's.  The jewelry from this time utilized free-form, earthy materials decorated with rhinestones.  Schiaparelli rock stone jewelry is highly collectible.  See an example of Schiaparelli lava stone jewelry on pages 244, 246 of Collecting Costume Jewelry 101 first edition or pages 271, 272 of the second edition.  In addition, page 20 of the book Costume Jewelry in Vogue by Jane Mulvagh showcases dark, rock style jewelry by Anne Fern for Fred Spurr dating to 1984.

Rare deLillo green plastic lava stone style earrings.  Note the settings echo the irregular shape of the glowing green stones.

Back view of rare deLillo earrings.

Recommendations:

Look for rock stone styles signed by couturier designers like Schiaparelli or deLillo.  The famous Har dragon set is a good example of the creative use of this material.  See page 335 of Collecting Costume Jewelry 202 for an example of Har cobra jewelry featuring these stones.  Florenza lava rock jewelry is also highly collectible and well-made.

Lucite

Definition:

Lucite is a plastic or acrylic resin that can be molded or cast into shapes.  It was patented in the United States in 1941.

During World War II, when the harder metals were need for the War effort, jewelry makers turned to alternative materials to make jewelry including ceramic, wood, and Lucite.  The most famous Lucite jewelry are the Trifari and Coro jelly belly pieces.  Jelly belly jewelry has a clear Lucite or glass center that is the central design element of the piece.  See Collecting Costume Jewelry 101 and Collecting Costume Jewelry 202 for examples of Elzac jewelry and jelly belly jewelry.

After the War Lucite continued to be a popular material for costume jewelry makers.  One of the most creative uses of this flexible, clear material was to imbed the Lucite with colorful materials including confetti, sea shells, and stones.  The following are examples of vintage jewelry designs using Lucite.

Unique chunky style bracelet with colorful stones embedded into Lucite.

Full view of chunky Lucite bracelet.

One of my favorite summertime bracelets, this pretty clamper features confetti Lucite with pink sea shells.  Sometimes these clamper bracelets are referred to as Florida bracelets because this type of jewelry was sold in the Florida resorts to tourists in the 1950's and 1960's.

Recommendations:

There are many wonderful collecting books specializing in plastic (Lucite) jewelry.  One of my favorite books is Mid-century Plastic Jewelry by Susan Maxine Klein.  Vintage plastic and Lucite jewelry is increasing in popularity.  I highly recommend investing in a few interesting sets while it is still affordable.  However, do some research to learn which designs and which makers are the most collectible.  It is also essential to only purchase good quality, mint condition examples. 

Molded Glass

Definition:

When heated, glass is fluid so it can be molded into many different, interesting shapes.  The three examples below represent a very small sampling of molded glass stones found in collectible costume jewelry. 

The Edlee brooch shown in Example One features a large molded glass flower that is a distinctive element in rare Edlee jewelry.  Note:  Unmarked jewelry featuring this molded glass stone is probably by Edlee.

Florenza is noted for utilizing interesting stones including the wonderful molded red "fruit" shaped stones shown in Example Two.  Note the great faceted center rhinestone with the red center and green edge.  The colors of this stone are reminiscent of the red center and green rind of a watermelon and are often referred to as watermelon stones.

The beautiful earrings in Example Three resemble the work of Kramer, but they are marked Hollycraft.  The light blue molded glass leaf stones have a foiled back which contributes to the glow and shimmer of these stones.

Example One:  Rare Edlee brooch with distinctive molded glass flower.

This brooch is featured on page 310 of Collecting Costume Jewelry 202. 

Example Two:  Wonderful Florenza Maltese cross with red molded glass stones and faceted watermelon center rhinestone.

This piece is shown on page 32 of Collecting Costume Jewelry 202.

Example Three:  Unusual Hollycraft earrings with large, long molded glass leaves.

Recommendations:

As a collector, I look for jewelry with molded glass stones.  In my opinion, molded glass stones add depth and interest to a piece.  However, great molded glass stones were used on average to below average jewelry.  Look collectible jewelry with a great mark, great design, great workmanship, and great molded glass stones. 

Remember, molded glass stones are cool to the touch.  Molded plastic, which mimics the look of glass, is warmer.

Moonstone

Definition:

Moonstones can vary in color.  Those from Sri Lanka are pale blue.  Moonstones from India are beige or brown.  In some cultures real moonstones are considered to have magical properties.  They are sometimes called "dream stones" and are a symbol of fertility.  Another term for moonstones is "lover's stone."  Some believe the phases of the moon can be seen when a moonstone is rotated.

Most moonstones found in costume jewelry are light blue.  They are easily recognized by the interesting play of light, deep inside the stone, when it is rotated.  Popular since Rene Lalique used moonstones for Art Nouveau jewelry, moonstones remain popular today.

The following information about moonstones was sent to me by Kathleen Finderson www.glitter-glas.com and is included with her permission.  Thank you Kathleen for your valuable input.

"...almost all 'moonstones' found in costume jewelry are either glass or Lucite.  Even though real moonstones are relatively inexpensive, it can be difficult to control the color and quality of the stones.  Most manufacturers used either glass or Lucite faux moonstones in their creations.  Almost all of it is made with so-called "moonglow Lucite," even those pieces from the late 30s and early 40s.  Some few pieces - your Trifari bird pin, for example, were made with glass simulated moonstones. 

The light blue color was probably the most popular color for faux moonstones, followed by light pink.  But I've seen it in yellow, gold, apricot, burgundy, purple, brown, and black and other colors."

I thank you Kathleen and I'm sure beginning collectors reading these pages thank you too! 

Example One:  1960 Trifari bird with high-quality blue moonstone. 

This beautiful bird pin is shown on page 225 of Collecting Costume Jewelry 202.  It dates to 1960 and was part of the advertised Trifari Fantasies series.

Example Two:  1950's Coro bracelet and clip earrings  featuring round, light blue moonstones.

This Coro moonstone set is one of the first sets I purchased so many years ago.  It is shown on page 30 of Collecting Costume Jewelry 101 First edition.

Recommendations:

The quality of faux moonstones varies.  When the Trifari bird in Example One is rotated the white (crescent moon shape) light seems to move within the stone as the bird is rotated.  This is a good quality moonstone.  The Coro moonstones shown in Example Two are lovely, but the inner light is not well defined probably due to the muted finish on the stones.

Mother-of-Pearl Disks

Definition:

Mother-of-pearl is the substance that lines the shells of some fresh and salt water mollusks.  It has an iridescent quality and can be dyed to almost any color.  It can be laminated to ceramic tile and coated with lacquer to give it a polished surface. 

Inlaid mother-of-pearl sterling sliver jewelry is sometimes imported from Mexico.  Costume jewelry makers, including Boucher and Capri, incorporated mother-of-pearl disks like those shown below into designs.  Of course, mother-of-pearl watch faces and buttons were also popular.

Pretty Capri bouquet featuring mother-of-pearl disks.

Recommendations:

Mother-of-pearl costume jewelry is plentiful.  Look for examples with intriguing designs signed by well respected makers.

One-of-a-Kind Painted Stones

Definition:

One-of-a-kind painted stones are stones with hand painted (or transfer painted) designs.  The hand-work results in slight differences from one stone to another.

DeLizza and Elster jewelry often features great stones including these rare floral cabochon stones.  Interestingly, these stones are plastic with colorful painted tops.  Notice that the floral design of each stone is slightly different.  The design required the "human touch" giving each stone a snowflake uniqueness. 

DeLizza and Elster brooch and earrings with one-of-a-kind floral cabochon stones.

Close view showing uniqueness of each stone.

Recommendations:

If you can find an example, and the price is reasonable, I recommend buying any jewelry (marked or unmarked) featuring these rare and wonderful stones.

Opal (Fire opal, Dragon's breath)

Definition:

Sometimes referred to as "Dragon's breath" faux fire opals are art glass stones created by adding metal to the molten glass or by a special foil backing.  Popular in the 1930's, these wonderful art glass stones can be identified by the deep undertones of red to purple.  Sometimes mistaken for saphiret glass (see examples of saphiret glass below), faux fire opals have an inner fire.  This inner fire can clearly be seen in Example Two below.  

Real fire opals are sometimes referred to as symbols of fervent love.  The best fire opal stones, with a brilliant red to orange glow, are from Mexico and are called "Mexican fire opals."  The Mayas and Aztecs loved this stone.

Fire opal stones can be faceted, but the cabochon stones better reflect the inner fire and are the most sought after by collectors.

The following information about faux fire opals was sent to me by Kathleen Finderson www.gliter-gals.com and is included here with her permission.  Thank you Kathleen.

"You are correct that the 'fire opals' in costume jewelry are glass tones and not opals.  However, these stones, often called 'jelly opals' or 'Mexican opals' do exist in nature.  Natural black Australian opals with a lot of color are also referred to as 'fire opals."  They are rare, exquisite, and very expensive." 

Example One:  I purchased this bracelet because of the vibrant faux "dragon's breath", faux opal stones.  The bracelet is marked with a 1935 patent number referring to the interesting flexible cuff mechanism.  It could date to any time after 1935, but the wonderful stones and non use of sterling suggest this is a late 1930's bracelet.

Example Two:  Close view showing the "Dragon's breath" inner fire.

Recommendations:

Look for examples of faux fire opals with rich deep colors.  The best stones glow from orange to red, but the red to purple (shown above) are wonderful too.

Petal Stones

Definition:

Petal stones are beautifully described in a 1962 Hobé advertisement as "Delicate Mayorka petal stones in a variety of individual ensembles..."  This advertisement is shown on page 354 of Collecting Costume Jewelry 202.  The advertisement refers to jewelry made with heart-shaped stones like the blue stones shown in the Julio Marsella brooch below.

Mayorka is the name of a beautiful island in Spain which was a popular tourist site in the 1950's and 1960's.  I do not know why Hobé named these lovely opaque stones Mayorka.  Perhaps, the goal was to tie the lovely look of the stones to the lovely island of Mayorka.  If anyone can tell me, I would love to know.

Beautiful blue Julio Marsella brooch featuring heart shaped glass stones.

Back view of Julio Marsella brooch.

Recommendations:

The Hobé petal stone jewelry, especially sets with clamper bracelets, is rising in value and highly collectible.  However, in my opinion, the Julio Marsella jewelry featuring these beautiful stones is also lovely and undervalued in today's market place.  This may change as more collectors "find" these little treasures.

Rivoli

Definition:

The term rivoli refers to the cut of the stone.  A rivoli cut stone is easily recognized by the cone (pointed top and bottom) shape.  Like spokes in a wheel, the facets begin at the center point and cascade around the edges of the stone.  In costume jewelry these large, prominent stones often dominate the design.  Popular in the 1960’s, rivoli stones are still in use today and can be found in many different colors including gem stone colors, chalk white or jet black, faux opal, and the popular faux tourmaline (sometimes referred to as vitrail, prism, watermelon, or volcano because of the explosion of color.)

Example One:  Vendộme brooch with vibrant blue rivoli shaped stones.  Each large 2mm in diameter stone is cradled in a nest of twisted gold tone wire. 

Both the blue and green Vendộme pieces shown here are featured on page 135 of Collecting Costume Jewelry 202.

Example Two: Vendộme rivoli stone bracelet in faux green tourmaline.  Sometimes these stones are referred to as watermelon stones because of the prism-like red to green reflected light.

This wonderful Weiss piece is shown on page 78 of Collecting Costume Jewelry 101 First Edition.

Recommendations:

Much of the collectible jewelry featuring rivoli stones was produced in the 1960’s, but not all jewelry featuring these stones is from that era.  New jewelry is currently being produced showcasing rivoli stones.  Generally, the most collectible jewelry with rivoli stones features stones with vibrant colors set in elaborate eye-catching designs.

Saphiret Glass

Definition: 

Saphiret glass is made by adding a small quantity of gold to sapphire colored glass.  The resulting glass is reflects a soft mocha color with blue and pink undertones. 

Saphiret glass first became popular in the late 19th century.  Early examples of saphiret glass include rosaries, beaded necklaces, and unmarked jewelry.  At the time, saphiret glass jewelry was costly.

 In the 1950’s and 1960’s an affordable supply of saphiret glass (often in a tear drop shape) must have become available to costume jewelry manufacturers because makers including Regency, Whiting and Davis, and Florenza incorporated these fabulous stones into competitively priced costume jewelry.  

Example One: Rare Regency brooch and earrings set featuring fabulous, fluctuating from brown to aqua color, saphiret glass stones.  Notice the way the tear-drop shaped mocha brown stones glow with a radiant blue to pink inner light.  These stones are smooth and highly reflective.  

This famous Regency set will be featured in the Second Edition of Collecting Costume Jewelry 101 due to be released in fall 2007.  

Example Two: Extraordinary Whiting and Davis saphiret glass bracelet, earrings, and ring. The saphiret glass stones in this example radiate pink to blue tones with less brown than the saphiret glass stones shown in the Regency set.  The surface of the Whiting and Davis saphiret glass is muted like soft, frosted-glass.

Recommendations:

All jewelry, marked or unmarked, with saphiret glass is highly collectible.  Currently signed examples of saphiret glass jewelry command high prices in today’s marketplace.  Yet, some sellers do not recognize the value of these stones.  I recommend searching through online auctions for saphiret glass jewelry to view as many examples as possible and to gain an understanding of the value of this jewelry.  Remember to check the completed auctions on e-Bay to learn the current selling prices for jewelry with these stones, and then search antique stores and flea markets for saphiret glass jewelry bargains.  Saphiret glass bargains are out there, really they are, waiting for the savvy collector.  

Tall or High Domed Cabochons

Definition:

Tall  cabochon stones protrude high into the air.  They are flat on the bottom, as if someone sliced off the bottom quarter of an egg.  These wonderful stones are usually found in turquoise or coral colors.

Tall turquoise cabochon stones decorate this interesting Boucher brooch.

Recommendations:

I was delighted to find a signed Boucher set with these stones.  (See a photograph of the complete set in Julie Collects.) Both Kenneth J. Lane and DeLizza and Elster*, to name just two, also utilized these wonderful stones in the 1960's.  Sometimes interesting stones are the only interesting feature.  In my opinion, that is the case with this Boucher set.  The design looks to me like these wonderful stones are emerging from the earth the way a chick breaks free from an egg. 

*From the training information provided by the Discovering D&E Juliana Jewelry Group.

Tapestry Beading

Definition:

Tapestry beading refers to the technique of completely covering the surface of a jewelry item with rows of tiny beads.  Usually these beads are strung together by wire that is then wrapped, by hand, around the metal finding.  The two photographs below of a lovely Miriam Haskell necklace illustrate this technique.  (A full view of this fabulous Miriam Haskell necklace is shown on page 343 of Collecting Costume Jewelry 202.)

Tapestry beading is a characteristic of high-quality Miriam Haskell jewelry; however, not all jewelry with tapestry beading was made by Haskell.  Other makers, including Robert and Eugene utilized this technique.

Close view of a Miriam Haskell necklace with yellow tapestry bead work.

Back view of the tapestry bead work showing the wrapped wired.

Recommendations:

Jewelry featuring tapestry beading was originally expensive to purchase because the beading was done by hand.  Good quality jewelry made this way is sought after by collectors.  However, a word of caution.  Carefully inspect any hand beaded jewelry for green rust.  Perhaps due to the handling, this rust is almost an epidemic with this type of hand-made jewelry. 

If there are open, uncovered findings, carefully consider the design of the piece.  Ask yourself, "Was the piece originally designed with this open area, or could some of the tapestry beading be missing?"

Bi-Color Stones

Definition:

Some of the prettiest rhinestones reflect two different colors like the lovely blue and green rhinestones shown in the example below.  This color is not striped across the top like the givré stones shown above.  The dual color combinations seem to come from the bottom of the stone. 

Kramer earring with rectangular, faceted, bi-color (blue/green) rhinestone.  See a photo of this Kramer set in Julie Collects.