Many of my readers write to me with questions about repairing costume jewelry.  I have a few "rules" or "guidelines" that work well for me.  These guidelines are based on my collecting experience and are more opinion that concrete facts.  Please use what I like to call "thoughtful caution" if you choose to follow any of these tips.

Feel free to send me any additional tips you might like to share with others.  I'll try to post them to this page.  When you write let me know if want your tip posted and if I can use your name.  (An email link is provided on the home page.)

Always try to purchase jewelry in excellent condition.  In my opinion, it is usually a good idea to pass up a damaged piece.  In the excitement of the "hunt" for treasures this can be difficult to do; however, in my experience it is better to wait, continue the hunt, and perhaps pay more for a piece in good condition

Metal wear to the front of the piece is unacceptable unless the piece is exceptionally old, rare, and valuable.  Peeling or flaking metal is also unacceptable.  Normal metal wear to the back of the piece, where it has rubbed on the skin, is OK but does lower the value.     

Solder repairs are unacceptable. 

Re-plating is unacceptable.

Replaced pin backs can be OK if the pin is an EXACT fit in terms of length, width, and color.  The repair must also be strong and solidly done. 

Re-soldered joints and catches are unacceptable.  A solder repair of any kind, even well-done, shows.  Also, this kind of hardware repair suggests to me that the piece may have suffered a mishap or lived a tough life.  Over time, other issues may surface with an abused piece. 

For necklaces, the chain should be original to the piece.  I prefer a chain with a bit of wear over a new chain added to a vintage pendant.  The original chain has the original clasp with may or may not be marked.  The wear or lack or wear on an original chain is also an indication of the piece's "mileage".   

Rhinestone replacements are acceptable and expected but only if they are well done.  I often buy jewelry with missing, easy to replace stones.   

• The replacement stone must be an exact match for the original stone in terms of color, cut, finish, size, and shape.
• A proper glue must be used - one that will not yellow - and any splatters of glue must be removed from the surrounding area. 
• Prong-set stones can be a challenge to set.  The stone must sit properly in the setting and the prongs need to be evenly closed.
• Consider the cost.  A few small missing stones is fine, but if dozens of missing stones is unacceptable. 

Some art glass stone replacements are available.  I recommend spending some time reviewing the many different types of rhinestone and art glass replacement stones available at www.mrstones.com  I do not purchase jewelry with missing art glass stones unless I am certain I can obtain an exact replacement. 

Cloudy stones suggest that the piece may have spent some time in a moist environment or that the original stones were low quality.  As a collector I am more worried about the long-term integrity of a piece with cloudy stones than I am with a piece missing a few stones.  Look any piece with cloudy stones over very carefully for other signs of rust or moisture related issues.  If the metal is OK and the piece is rare/valuable enough to absorb the cost of replacing ALL of the stones (if a few are cloudy now, others will follow over time), I consider purchasing it.

In my opinion, repainting or repairing enameling is unacceptable.  Many 1940's enameled styles will have scratches, chips, etc.  I expect to see some enameling flaws and as a collector I prefer these age related flaws to a repainted piece.  I will purchase an older, 1940's era design with slightly flawed enameling.  I pass by pieces with a huge amount of damage.  I think to myself "Can I wear this piece as it is or is it so badly flawed that it can not longer be worn?"  I pass by enameled jewelry that is too damaged to be worn.

Often I receive emails asking me to help provide information about an unknown maker.  I LOVE research, but I do not have time to do this research for others.  However, I will be happy to share some of my sources and some of the methods I use to uncover some history about the different jewelry makers.

Online:  My favorite online source for information on jewelry marks is Researching Costume Jewelry at www.illusionjewels.com

Books/Magazines:  Whenever I can find them, I purchase 1950's - 1960's era Jewelers Buyer's Guides.  These guides provide wonderful information on vintage costume jewelry companies.  I also have a huge collection of costume jewelry books by other authors.  I belong to the Vintage Fashion and Costume Jewelry club.  Their quarterly newsletter is more like a beautiful magazine full of interesting news and articles about costume jewelry. 

Vintage Catalogs:  I buy any vintage jewelry catalogs from any maker that I can find.  I also page through old magazines and old store catalogs for jewelry listings or advertisements.

First Person Contacts:  I talk to people about jewelry both online and in person.  The "person to person" network is a wonderful way to find jewelry contacts.  I've been privileged to meet and interview many wonderful people involved in the jewelry business through tips from generous friends.