Elaborate, beautifully designed Hobé earrings.

Back view.

I found these wonderful Hobé earrings hiding in a case at an antique store with a price tag under $10.00.  Even though I do not have any of the coordinating pieces, the spectacular design of these earrings prompted me to purchase them anyway.  Of course, the reasonable price tag helped, too!

As a serious collector I often purchase orphaned earrings like these.  Hopefully, one day I will find the matching necklace or brooch.  If not, no matter.  These little works of art are, in my opinion, worth the price.  Besides, I felt it was my duty to rescue them from a wandering craft person who might mistake them for junk and decide to disassemble them to decorate a craft project.  (Don't get me started on this topic!)

Vintage Weiss with smooth rhodium back.

New brooch with rough, textured back.

Tip #1:  Newer jewelry often has textured metal backs.

Remember to look at the back of the jewelry.  Newer jewelry, produced after approximately 1970 often has textured rather than smooth backs.  Unfortunately new rhinestone jewelry is sometimes tagged as vintage by unknowledgeable dealers.

Vintage Trifari brooch with pasted in rhinestones.

New brooch with pasted in rhinestones.

Tip #2:  Small, pasted-in rhinestones is one indicator that the jewelry may be new.  One major exception to this rule is vintage Trifari jewelry.  Even fabulous Trifari masterpieces have pasted in rhinestones.

 Most new jewelry is NOT prong set.  When the rhinestones are pasted-in, examine the piece for other indications of age such as an appropriate signature.  Also, look at the quality - sparkle - of the rhinestones.  The rhinestones decorating the new brooch shown above are a pretty color, but lack the fire and sparkle of the higher quality rhinestones decorating the Trifari brooch.

Pin back soldered in two places.

"V" shaped pin back riveted in the center.

Tip #3:  Generally, the pin backs on better quality jewelry are soldered in two places.  “V” – shaped pin backs or “bar” pin backs often indicate average to below average quality jewelry. 

Many brooches from the 1950's and 1960's have the "V" shaped pin back but these rarely command high values in the collectible market.  Early collectible pieces from the 1940's will almost always be constructed with a pin back soldered in two places. 

Trifari key brooch with replaced pin back.

Close view of longer pin.

Close view of atypical Trifari pin. 

Click for a close view of the swivel mechanism or the hinge.  Note that the top of the pin is flat right at the hinge.

Tip #4:  Often early pins extend well beyond the spinning c-clasp.  This longer pin is one indication the brooch is "old" rather than "new."  However, this may also be an indication that the pin has been replaced.  The long pin back shown on the Trifari key pin is a replacement.  (Tip #4A explains why I believe the pin back is not original.)

Tip #4A:    The top of Trifari pin backs, where the pin attaches to the hinge, is flattened and then becomes round again.  This flat spot by the hinge is found on almost every Trifari pin from any era.  If a Trifari pin does not have this flat place, then the pinback is likely a replacement.  The Trifari dancer pin above shows this flat surface by the hinge.

This tip and the following information about the Trifari pin backs was sent to me by Kathleen Finderson www.glitter-gals.com and is included here with her permission.

Kathleen writes:

"Your readers might want to keep in mind that people sometimes replace pins on brooches.  Long pins in shorter mechanisms do not always indicate age.  They sometimes indicate that the person who fixed the jewelry couldn't find a pin of the right size.

One fairly sure way to see if a Trifari pin has been replaced is to look at the pin where it is inserted into the swivel.  The top surface of every single Trifari brooch is flat and square near the swivel for just a fraction of an inch before it becomes completely round.  Occasionally you will see a Trifari pin with the pinback put in upside down, so the flat portion is not immediately apparent until you open the pin mechanism.  Every single Trifari pin I have ever see, from any era, has this flattened pinback.  Patt Hamm of "Granny's Jewelry Box" - www.grannysjewelrybox.com - was the first person to point this out to me."

After learning this "Trifari tip" from Kathleen I immediately checked dozens of Trifari pins from several different decades to see if the tip holds true through time.  ALL of my Trifari pins (with the exception of the Trifari key pin shown above) have the flattened pinback.

Next, I checked the pinbacks from my Weiss jewelry to see if other makers also utilized this type of pinback.  Some of my Weiss brooches have this flattened pinback and some do not.  Apparently others sometimes used the flattened pinback but Trifari nearly always used that type of pinback.  (I hesitate to say ALWAYS because there are ALWAYS exceptions to any rule.)

Does this "Trifari tip" hold true for the jewelry in your collection?  I'd be interested in any further input on this idea.

Thank you Kathleen and Pat!

Patriotic red, white, and blue Vogue glass beads with interesting clasp.

Interestingly, part of the flower detaches when the clasp is opened. 

Tip #5:  Interesting clasps like the Vogue clasp shown above are often an indication of a good quality piece. 

Many makers produced pretty red, white and blue necklaces to celebrate out nation's bicentennial.  However, the most collectible pieces not only need a patriotic design and color scheme, but the jewelry must also be high-quality.  A decorative and/or interesting clasp speaks well of the maker and, in my view, gives this otherwise simple necklace a plus quality.   

Triple strand Laguna blue and green crystal necklace and earrings set.

Unmarked, these earrings are stylistically an exact match for the necklace.

Unmarked chunky bracelet with coordinating, but unmatched earrings.

Back view of chunky bracelet and earrings.

Tip #6:  Make sure all pieces in a set exactly match.  Check signatures, metal color, stones, and style.

Even though they are unmarked, the lovely Laguna crystal clip earrings are an exact match to the signed necklace.  They feature the same combination of blue and green crystal beads.  All pieces are made in silver-tone metal.  The necklace and earrings were purchased as a set and I am confident the unmarked earrings are Laguna.

The unmarked chunky bracelet and earrings shown above are likely a marriage.  All of the pieces are unmarked.  They all feature the same deep red stones.  However, the red stones on the bracelet are long tear drop shapes but the red stones in the earrings are rectangular.  The bracelet is also decorated with pearls and small red rhinestones.  There are pearls but no red rhinestones on the earrings.  Finally, the earring feature a wonderful metal leaves overlaying the red stones.  This design element is missing from the bracelet.  While these pieces coordinate well with each other, they are not a match.  This kind of marriage lowers the value of the set to collectors. 

Coro double strand crystal necklace, bracelet and earrings.

Close view of original tag which reads "Coro Shimmering Stars."

Tip #7:  Look for jewelry with original tags.

Finding a set with original tags adds value to an otherwise ordinary Coro set for two important reasons.

First, the original tags help to identify all of the pieces as Coro.  Coro made many, many crystal bead sets.  However, often crystal beaded bracelets, like the one with this set, are unmarked except for the original paper tag.   The presence of the original Coro tag establishes this unmarked crystal bracelet as Coro.

Next, the original tags reveal the name Coro assigned to the jewelry, probably for advertising.  This lovely set was called "Shimmering Stars."

The matching earrings help to add interest and value to this Sarah Coventry brooch and earrings set.

Tip #8:  Try to complete sets.

This is one of my favorite Sarah Coventry brooches, but it is not rare.  It is one of my first purchases when I began collecting costume jewelry over 14 years ago, so it has some sentimental value to me.  I bought it at a local flea market.  Years later, I found the matching ring at the same flea market and just this morning acquired the earrings - FUN, FUN, FUN! 

Aside from the FUN, adding to sets (even a relatively inexpensive set like this Sarah Coventry group) increases the value of the individual pieces by 20% or more.  See Collecting Costume Jewelry 101 for more information on adding value to a collection in this way.